
How Broken Key Extraction Works Across Different Lock Types
Not every snapped key is the same job, and the lock type sitting between you and your door matters enormously. Mortise locks — common in Clifton's older two- and three-family homes and in commercial storefronts along Lakeview Avenue — have a longer, rectangular cylinder set into a heavy case inside the door. Because the keyway on a mortise lock runs deeper into the door than on a standard cylindrical lock, a fragment can travel further inward, and the extraction approach has to account for the lock's internal geometry without disturbing the lever or cam mechanism behind it. Our technicians carry hook picks, broken-key extractors, and needle-nose tools purpose-built for mortise cylinder profiles, and they know which tool to reach for based on how far the break sits relative to the shear line.
Deadbolts present their own variables. A single-cylinder Schlage or Kwikset deadbolt on a residential front door typically allows a bit more working room, but if the key snapped while the bolt was partially thrown, the cylinder is under tension — meaning the fragment is being gripped by the pins. Relieving that tension before extraction is the skill that separates a professional result from a damaged plug. Door knob locks, which are more common on interior and secondary doors, have shallower cylinders but narrower keyways, which can make fragment retrieval fiddly without the right extractor gauge. Across all three lock types, our goal is damage-free removal wherever the condition of the lock allows it.


